Culinary gourmet travels in Umbria and Tuscany, Italy
Agriturismo Villa La Rogaia
Gourmet travellers and lovers of Italian food, wine and cooking find themselves in paradise in Umbria and Tuscany. The delights of Umbrian and Tuscan cuisine and wine cellars await the visitor in picturesque hill towns not yet discovered by mainstream tourism. We will pass on to you the best restaurants and osterie serving cucina tipica in the vicinity of agritourism La Rogaia. Or learn the secrets of authentic Italian dishes: join us for a cooking class with Maestra Ornella Carletti. On this page you may peer into Ornella’s pots and pans. Try one of the recipies of La Rogaia cooking school.
Upcoming Events Culinary Tours and Cooking Classes
Umbrian cuisine has its roots in ancient Roman times and has kept its fine simplicity through the centuries. Wherever you go in Umbria you will find hospitality, a delicious dish and a good glass of wine. This will make your stay unforgettable. From every restaurant you can enjoy a panoramic view of the green hills of Umbria with its endless woods and pastures. From there comes the meat for delicious roasts: the Perugia beef, pigs fed with acorn, lambs and kids and last but not least game. Umbrians are passionate hunters of boars, hares, pheasants and deer. Whether roasted, cooked or grilled, always the original flavour of every food is complimented by mediterranean herbs, but never dominated. Vegetables like artichokes, spinach or mushrooms are used fresh, without adding flavours.
There are also the famous black truffles from Norcia and Spoleto. This precious delicacy grows in the Umbrian oak woods from November to March. In contrast to the white truffle the black truffle has to be sauteed in a little butter in order to fully develop its aroma. The finishing touch to every dish is olive oil, cold pressed extra virgin, the pride of every Umbrian farmer. Come with Ornella to her kitchen and try together the different tastes and flavours of Umbria (cooking classes).
Recipies by Ornella Carletti from the cooking classes at La Rogaia
Tagliatelle al sugo di porro e noci (Tagliatelle with leek and walnuts)
(for 4 persons)
- 300 - 400 gr Tagliatelle a grano duro (not with eggs) or Spaghetti
- 800 gr leek
- 1 onion
- Pepper and salt
- 1 cup of peeled walnuts
- Olive oil
- 2 cloves of garlic
- 500 gr cherry tomatoes
- 200 ml of cream
- grated Parmesan cheese
Cut onion and garlic in small cubes and sautee in butter and oil. Cut leek in small rings, rinse with warm water, dry and add to the onins and garlic, simmer at reduced heat, season with salt and pepper. When the leek is soft (after about 10 min), add cherry tomatoes cut in halves. In the meantime cook the noodles. Add cream to the leek, blend noodles and vegetables (the cherry tomatoes have to be almost raw still). Add grated Parmensan. Decorate with walnuts and serve immediately (important: otherwise the noodles will get too soft).
Torcolo (traditional Umbrian farmers' cake to celebrate a successful harvest)
- 100 gr pine nuts
- 6 eggs
- rind of 1 lemon
- 300 gr sugar
- 600 gr flour
- 150 gr butter
- 1 glass milk
- raisins, chopped almonds, chopped candied oranges and lemons
- 1 pack of baking powder
Beat butter with sugar and eggs. Add flour, milk, pine nuts, raisins, almonds, candied fruits and baking powder. Fill mixture in buttered and floured cake dish ( in the form of a ring). Decorate with peeled almonds. Bake for 40 min at medium heat. Let cool and serve with Vin Santo (sweet dessert wine).
Wine from Umbria and Tuscany
Close to La Rogaia you may not only taste the famous red wines Rosso di Montalcino and Nobile di Montepulciano. Umbria is producing high quality wines that can well take it up with their Tuscan neighbours, at definitely better prices. Our special recommendation: Come to Cantine Aperte (open wine day) on the last Sunday in May: Large and small wineries invite you to taste their wines along with porchetta (roast suckling pig) and music. They also offer guided tours through their cellars. This is Italian way of living at its best!
Here are some of our tips for the wine lover. When you come to La Rogaia we will share with you more of our experiences.
Best wine cellars
Pucciarella. Situated in the neighbouring valley of La Rogaia. Robust Sangiovese wines.
Lungarotti. Umbria’s most well known wine producer. Large selection of red and white wines. Visit the wine museum in the cool cellars of a 16th-century mansion.
Cantine Adanti and prize-winning Paolo Bea produce a delicious red Sagrantino wine and Passito di Sagrantino (sweet wine). Arnaldo Caprai presses a fresh and fruity white wine.
For more Umbrian wine producers check the Gambero rosso and other wine guides for Italy.
Read more about Umbrian wines at slowtrav.com
Where to eat : Best Restaurants around Lake Trasimeno, in Umbria, Southern Tuscany and Le Marche
Small Pizzeria along the main road of the village in direction to Passignano on the left hand side (when coming from La Rogaia).
Ristorante Il Corte at Hotel Relais La Fattoria
In the old village centre of Castel Rigone. Take the road which leads uphill in fron of the church. Traditional cuisine at reasonable prices. Very nice settings inside and on the terrace beside the pool, overlooking Lake Trasimeno. Tel 075 845322
Between Castel Rigone and Umbertide (turning to the right at the end of the La Rogaia gravel road):
Beer garden and restaurant partly self service. Speciality: „Torta al testo“, The Umbrian answer to Calzone, filled with sausage and spinach or with rocket and stracchino cheese or with raw ham and cheese. In autumn game specialities. Good value. In summer open daily from 9:00 , in winter only Sat and Sun.
Tiny restaurant with simple Umbrian specialities. Try the omelette with nettles or the Zuppa di ceci e castagne. Tel 075 9410 294
Passignano sul Trasimeno
Poggio del Belveduto
Going from Castel Rigone to Passignano make a right turn shortly before you get down to the road along the lake. Follow the signs along the road. Great views over the lake. With horse riding (s. below). Fixed menu at EUR 25 per person. Tel 075 829076. Always open from April to September.
Right in the town centre you can dine under a wine pergola. They serve good fresh water fish from the Lake. Closed on Tuedays. Tel 075 8296 063
At the yacht harbour. Pizza from the wood oven. Closed on Tuedays. Tel 075 829 058
Isola Maggiore at Lake Trasimeno
Have a leisurely lunch in the shady garden at the lake front. We recommend „Regina in porchetta“ (carp with fennel). Tel 075 826168. Open every day.
On the road to Torricella right after the railway crossing to the right. Situated directly at the lake. Fish specialities, great desserts. Bring one of the cards from the folder and get 10 % discount. Closed on Tuesdays. Tel 075 843646
Rosso di Sera
Dirctly at the lake fron, with verandah and view of beautiful sunsets. Creative cuisine, of course fish from the Lake. Tel 075 8476277. Closed on Tuesdays.
Pizzeria and Umbrian specialities at afish pond, perfect for warm summer evening. Lots of space for children to play. Good prices. Tel 075 8472682 or 337 639779
Ospitalità Rurale Montemelino
From the road that leads from Magione to Chiusi make a left turn after the railway tunnel. Follow the signs. Umbrian specialities. Situated on a hill. Tel 075 841 767
Small garden restaurant, organic food. Very delicious. But do not look out for locals: this restaurant is frequented at 95 % by English, Americans, Dutch, Germans … Tel 057 638112
Not in a very romantic location (right beside the highway to Perugia) but with large green patio. Good for families, wheelchair friendly. Vast selection of traditional regional dishes and pizza. Good value. Very popular with Perugians, only few tourists. Tel 075 5170328. Gets crowded after 20:30.
Dal mi Cocco
Legendray rustiv restaurant without menu. Eat as much as you can at EUR 13 per meal. Always full be sure to make a reservation. Specialities from Perugia. Tel 075 5732511.
Agriturismo in the hills to the east of Perugia at Montelaguardia. Take the E45, exit Ponte Felcino or Ponte Pattoli. Small family restaurant, in winter Tyrolian (!) specialities. Insider tipp restaurant for the Perugians. Open Thurs to Sun for dinner only. Call to book a table. Tel. 075 5899438 oder 335 230305
Citta della Pieve
Ristorante Il Felcino
at Fraz. Salci bei Fabro, Agriturismo with meat specialities from the own Chianina beef breeding. Tel 393 9905070
Locanda della Picca
Follow the road to towards the ospedale. Youngrestaurant with modern design, great views from the terrace. On summer weekends live music (jazz). Innovative Tuscan cuisine, Cocktails. Tel 0578 299403
Agriturismo Gatto Giallo
Typical Umbrian food. Meat barbecued at the open fireplace in the restaurant.
Tel 0763-837546 und 3471045059
Tiny restaurant at Paciano on the south side of Lake Trasimeno. Offering theme dinners (e.g. Renaissnace dinner) or wine tasting at good prices. Tel 075 830144.
Famous restaurant with fish and game specialities, Etruscan cuisine. Tel 0578 20260. In winter closed on Mondays
Close to the Marmore waterfalls at Arrone (province Terni)
Good food in a shaded patio. From Marmore waterfalls take the road to Arrone, the restaurant is situated right along the road. Tel 0744 388372
Castelluccio di Norcia
Il Guerrin Meschino
Simple restaurant of an agritourism with specialities of the Castelluccio high plane. Lentils from their own farm. It is also possible to stay overnight there Tel 0743 721125 or 338 3742649
Restaurants in Southern Tuscany
La Locanda del Loggiato
Tuscan specialities served under the loggia overlooking the picturesque town piazza of Cortona. Tel 0575 630575. Closed on Wednesdays.
Asciano (on the way to Siena in the Crete)
Osteria La Pievina
The owner of this tiny restaurant is decorated as lushly as the interiors of the dining room: hundreds of lace cloths, pictures and paintings, flowers everywhere. The restaurant is situated along the road from Siena to Asciano on the top of a hill. There is no menu, you will get served one delicious plate after the other until you say stop. Which will not prevent the owner bring you another huge serving of sweets … Nothing for small stomachs but a real treat! Tel 0577 718368. Closed on Mondays.
Game specialities and superb pasta in a small restaurant with patio. Tel 0577 718227. Closed on Mondays.
Piazze, on the way to San Casciano dei Bagni (thermal spa, see below):
Small traditional trattoria serving simple food.Home made pasta, pickled mushrooms, grilled meat.
Monticchiello (close to Montepulciano and Pienza)
Tiny restaurant with terrace overlooking the Val d’Orcia. Noble Tuscan cuisine, exquisite wines, a bit more expensive. Resrve a table before going 0578 755163. Closed on Thursdays.
Restaurant in the Marche:
Close to the Frasassi caves
Excellent restaurant with high quality food at reasonable prices. Try the goose ham for a starter or wild boar stew with herbs. Tel: 0732 90061
Shopping for Umbrian delikatessen
You can buy cold pressed extra virgin olive oil at Villa La Rogaia, organic and of highest quality. Or join us for the olive harvest and pick your own olive oil. When you are at La Rogaia we will tell you about the best alimentari (food grocers), delikatessen shops, weekly markets and truffle vendors.
We have only included some of our personal tips and recommendations which we do not claim to be complete. If you would like to know more about food and wine in Umbria and Tuscany please check our link pages or travel guides.
These pages with tips for your vacation in Umbria and Tuscany are being updated regularly. Come back to see what’s new !